Background: Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).
Objective: To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self-assessment methods.
Method: In an open-label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l-ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide-38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin-tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self-assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.
Results: Skin-roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%-9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects’ perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.
Conclusion: The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix-restoring peptide.